The "security guard" aka a dreaded nica dude came up to me my first night in Matagalpa and asked what I was planning on doing the next day. When I told him that I planned on hiking Cerro Apante he got super pumped and told me I should go with him and he'll take me a better way. Knowing that he worked for the hostel I felt it was safe to go with him into the middle of the woods. I mean it was a 50/50 chance I’d become part of a human sacrifice or a real cultural experience. So I took my chances and we hiked. When we got to the top it was pouring rain and sought refuge under a beautifully made wooden shelter. His friends met us there a few minutes later and partook in the localities, as did I. We all talked about how much we loved the mountains, it stopped raining, a flock of birds flew by then we had a view of Matagalpa city. Amazing.
Memo's friends gave me a ride back down the mountain in their 4x4, there was Nicaraguan flags in the window and they were blasting house music. I tried not to laugh out loud how funny and awesome all this was. Memo and I ate the best street food ever for 14 cords which was about 60 cents, then I spent the rest of the afternoon drinking coffee and blogging as the streets flooded.
Later that night I went to grab a drink with Memo and brought Jake along, a Utah native that had fallen in love with Nicaragua and was now on an expired visa, working toward four months. Jake hadn’t spoke English in two months and was happy to talk to another American. When he learned I was going to Esteli he decided to tag along and hang out for the day.
Esteli
I woke up early to the rain. Laid in bed for awhile taking in the comforting sound while I let my body wake up. I told Jake I’d meet him at Parque Dario at 10am so I had the whole morning to myself. The rain had brought cooler temperatures, which meant I could wear leggings, something that had previously been an occupant of the bottom of my bag. Leggings, rain jacket, book, journal, camera and I was off to find breakfast and drink more delicious Nica coffee. I love slow mornings, this one was particularly wonderful.
Jake and I got to Esteli around 1pm and we were welcomed with a downpour. So I found the first hostel I could, $5 a night got me a private room with a half working light, it would do. Jake and I put my pack down in my room and sought after a café we could take refuge in until the rain slowed. Jake, the hipster to be, angsty 20-year old and I discussed music, art, politics and organic food over a cappuccino which made me feel like I was home. Feeling particularly happy, we ordered crepes then indulged while Jake taught me infinitive participles of “dar”.
The rain some what stopped and we decided to wander the city. We stumbled upon tons of graffiti art, eye pleasing architecture and dozens of Esteli local hilarities. We took artsy photos and acted like we knew graffiti art still feeling the effects of caffeine and probably some other genre of alteration. I then turned to the reason I was there, leather boots. Custom leather boots. I had heard that Esteli was famous for their leather goods and when I learned that there was a boot shop that would custom make a pair of leather boots for less than three digits, I knew I had discovered gold, gold in world of the fashion.
You know that feeling when you go to Disney land for he first time? Or you find the perfect prom dress when you’re 16? Or getting free tickets to see your favorite band? This was just like that. I was at Disneyland in the world of leather boots. Suede, real snake skin, deer hide, cow hide, ox hide, all sorts of beautiful boots thanks to the skin of various animals. I found my boots in the back corner, but it was love at first sight. Suede top, leather bottom and a grayish green that screamed perfection.
After succeeding with my boots, Jake headed back to Matagalpa and I wandered a bit longer, drooling over leather wallets and handmade Nica colorful backpacks. It started to get dark, which meant I needed to find food before everything closed as well as get back to my hostel before I found myself being a target for getting robbed. I ate the best pork tacos ever then retired to my creepy room. “Please do not soak the bed in blood. There will be a $100 cordorba fine.” Was what the sign on the back of the door read. The half working florescent light added to the murder scene feel, so I changed the mood with my headlamp peanut butter and cereal, big toe and “The Emporers New Groove” playing loud on my lap top. Downloading a bunch of movies before I left was one of the best Ideas I have ever had.
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